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This is England: 1983 – 1986

Today, the fourth and final episode of Shane Meadows’ “This is England ’86″ will air on Channel 4. The series picks up three years to the day after the first shot in Meadows’ BAFTA-winning “This is England” (2006), and the subjects have gone through some changes. Combo is not hanging out any more, Banjo and Meggie are off the racist tip and Shaun is trying to stick in the workforce. The crew’s different fashions are immediately noticeable. Meadows had this to say to GQ (UK)’s Andy Morris when he broached the subject:

Strangely it’s just about the people now. The characters have earned their right to not be part of the fashion. They’re not just skinheads in a gang. Woody is still into his scooters, Milky is still into being a skinhead but they’ve all moved on. The reality was that by 1986 the important thing is the World Cup. It’s strange how we hang our memories on national events. 1986 was quite a wishy washy time. Hip-hop was still being born, the punk and skinhead thing had kind of died but was still there, there were casuals as well — but the one thing that sticks in my mind was Maradona’sHand of God“. I’ve been listening to a lot of archive stuff and what people forget is there were lines and lines of soldiers and tanks at the match. It was like they could have blown the whole thing up!

thomas turgoose shaun this is england 86 trumbull island
Shaun – Thomas Turgoose

We find Shaun to be a bit of a loner at the beginning of summer ’86. He quit hanging out with the crew in ’83, after Combo beat the shit out of Milky. Shaun now sports shaggy locks — that’s post-skinhead to you — and after a disagreement with his mum, he leaves home to sleep down by the docks. To round out his new homeless style, Smell hooks him up with some pieces from her 71-year-old father’s wardrobe. Nothing fits and everything is old. That’s real.

joseph gilgun woody this is england 86 trumbull island
Woody – Joseph Gilgun

No longer on the dole, Woody is now a semi-post-skinhead with a job at the local factory. The change in wardrobe, though subtle, reflects a newfound maturity, and his grown out mop obscures the small tattooed cross which adorned the middle of his forehead way back in ’83. There’s also a tie, thin knot, a belt to replace the very-skinhead suspenders, both of which signify adulthood, as do marriage and staying skinhead in the face of promotions and paperwork, two more pressures Woody now faces. The hair is akin to Paul Weller circa ’78, so it’s not totally out of left field for Woody, though to be fair, a true skinhead would have whupped The Jam and their fans out of respect.

vicky mcclure lol this is england 86 trumbull island
Lol – Vicky McClure

Lol is keeping it pretty real on the fashion front. Still with the tartans and now in a Fred Perry cardigan, cuffed black jeans and her trusty boots, she’s an autumn and a certifiable semi-skinhead. Lol’s hair is the only significant point of departure, outgrown from the Chelsea into a bleached boy’s cut which she slicks up in the front. One can only assume there is a Harrington in the closet somewhere next to the Generation X records and pressed jeans or whatever. #EllenDegeneres?

chanel cresswell kelly danielle watson trev this is england 86 trumbull island
Kelly and Trev – Chanel Cresswell and Danielle Watson

Impeccable.

chanel cressell kelly danielle watson trev this is england 86 trumbull island
Kelly and Trev – Chanel Cresswell and Danielle Watson

Kelly’s really on some shit here, compared to her skinbyrd style of ’83. With a ‘do more evocative of the noble Native Americans than Northern England, and overalls and a mohawk/braided rat tail combo to replace the Fred Perry and Chelsea. She also rocks a lot of makeup in ’86, which is a good thing. Meanwhile, with Trev, only her hair color has really changed, to what I assume is more of a natural look for her. Let it not go unsaid that sometimes staying a skinhead (or trad byrd) is fine and dandy.

michael socha harvey this is england 86 trumbull island
Harvey – Michael Socha

In the film, Harvey made only a brief appearance, as a schoolyard bully of the Rudeboy persuasion who picked on Shaun for wearing flared corduroys. Cut to 1986 and Harvey is an integral part of the crew who has graduated to full-fledged coreman, or as much a coreman as an Englishman can be (that’s semi-coreman, for those keeping score at home). The Cramps T-shirt, leather jacket, and creepers (not visible) are pretty standard but the blond fade is a nice touch. Well-played, Harvey!

andrew ellis gadget this is england 86 trumbull island
Gadget – Andrew Ellis

Oh, Gadget. In 1983, Gadget had a nice fatskin thing going on, sporting a flight jacket with plenty of flair, a polo, boots, braces, and a beanie. 1986 sees our bumbling young crew member mixed up in a style that seems to be an amalgamation of casual, hip-hop and straight punk that likely is to provide him with a smooth transition to the acid house scene just around the corner. One thing’s for certain: no matter how he dresses (and he does get tripped up on his style in ’86), he’s still the same old Gadge!

andrew shim milky this is england 86 trumbull island
Milky – Andrew Shim

Milky’s back. No hat this time, Milky has graduated to a reined-in traditional look, set off by plenty of Lonsdale polos, a Harrington jacket, jeans, boots, and shorter, squared-off Joe Mauer-esque sideburns, as opposed to the swooping, Trojan-esque chops he wore back in ’83. For more information, feel free to check out its-a-good-look.net.

rosamund hanson smell this is england 86 trumbull island
Smell – Rosamund Hanson

The crew would not be complete without Smell. She always had a style of her own, on the new wave/new romantic tip. 1986 finds her with the sides of her head shaved and a bit more goth of a vibe. Still a sweetheart, still a pro with the makeup, and still more woman than Shaun can handle.1

Perry Fitzpatrick flip this is england 86 trumbull island
Teasing kid

Dickhead on a bike, also makes fun of Sean’s pants.

perry fitzpatrick flip this is england 86 trumbull island
Flip – Perry Fitzpatrick

This is purely conjecture, but I believe that Perry here is reprising a nameless role he did not play in the original film. Now, we’ve got a dickhead on a scooter, flanked by his gang of casuals, some in Tacchini. For my money, Flip is the best character in the television series. Just watch.

perry benson meggie this is england 86 trumbull island
Meggie – Perry Benson

Some things stay the same.

george newton banjo this is england 86 trumbull island
Banjo – George Newton

Banjo got Combo onto the racist shit when they were in prison together from 1980-1983. When Combo is released and returns to the lads, Banjo is his right hand man, and his ominous presence helps to catalyze the crew’s schism in the film. In 1986, he is just one of the lads, and bygones seem to be bygones. In place of the shaved dome, Banjo rocks a graying mohawk, but not much else has changed for him, style-wise.

jo hartley cynthia this is england 86 trumbull island
Cynthia – Jo Hartley

Cynthia, Shaun’s mother, has a shorter and straighter ‘do, but still rocking the mom jeans/mom jean skirt. Losing half of the denim tuxedo is definitely an improvement.

hannah walters trudy this is england 86 trumbull island
Trudy – Hannah Walters

Yeah, we went there. Have a gander at Trudy. She has nothing to do with skinhead fashion, aside from the fact that she’s shagged nearly everyone in the crew. No longer working at the shoe store, Trudy is employed by a budget wedding chapel in 1986, and experimenting with new sexual maneuvers such as “fire and ice.”

stephen graham combo this is england 86 trumbull island
Combo – Stephen Graham

What’s the deal with Combo? Is he OK? Has he entered a cubist/dice (Rockabilly) phase? He definitely has more hair. We’ll have to wait for the finale to see what his appearance in the final moments of episode three will mean for the crew and how his style has evolved from his alpha-skin look in 1983.

Shoutouts to: Catherine Scoble, Charlotte Walter, Peta Dunstall, Lily Beckett, Nick Barron, Hannah Walter and Nadia Stacey for handling the costume and makeup design for the series.

    Footnotes

  1. "I heard barking." - Cynthia, Shaun's mother

117 Comments

  1. Erol wrote:

    Great breakdown on the styles. I agree with you on Flip, a superb character. “GINGE!”

    Tuesday, September 28, 2010 at 6:19 am | Permalink
  2. harvey wrote:

    I just wanted to say that I found your site via Goolge and I am glad I did. Keep up the good work and I will make sure to bookmark you for when I have more free time away from the books. Thanks again!

    Tuesday, September 28, 2010 at 7:39 am | Permalink
  3. Kitty wrote:

    Thanks so much for this I absolutly love the series and am gutted it’s over tonight but found this helpful as I have never actually seen the film!! Cringe!! I have bought it now tho and I’ll watch it at a later date! Thanks tho good work x

    Tuesday, September 28, 2010 at 11:33 am | Permalink
  4. Heather wrote:

    This is excellent – really well done!

    Tuesday, September 28, 2010 at 11:53 am | Permalink
  5. Sarah wrote:

    I found this post through Shane Meadows’ Twitter. Brilliant entry! My favourite character is Harvey, particularly after last week’s episode where he and Gadge had that great exchange about Trudy. I think he’s really underrated. Scared to see what the final episode brings, looking forward to it though.

    Tuesday, September 28, 2010 at 12:55 pm | Permalink
  6. parkey wrote:

    This is ace! Good stuff.

    Tuesday, September 28, 2010 at 1:05 pm | Permalink
  7. Jack wrote:

    I think this is an amazing blog. I was involved with the show as a writer and well, I just think putting the pictures by the side like you’ve done is incredible. But I just wanted to correct your shout-outs at the end.

    The correct people to shout-out to – and they’re amazing – are: Charlotte Walter costume design, Hannah Walter – costume supervisor
    (as you said), Catherine Scoble – make-up and hair design and Peta Dunstall – chief hairdresser. They had to dress me twice and shave off my eyebrows I’m a lanky piece of piss and they were brilliant.

    Tuesday, September 28, 2010 at 3:41 pm | Permalink
  8. trumbull1 wrote:

    Shaving the eyebrows off the writers…now that’s commitment!

    Thank you for acknowledging these important crew members.

    Tuesday, September 28, 2010 at 4:04 pm | Permalink
  9. Wardrobemag wrote:

    Wow, what a post. You certainly went into more detail than mine! It’s amazing to see the difference in style for each of the characters :)

    I agree with Flip. He has an amazing ‘voice’ so deep haha. Was sad to see it end tonight but as usual it went out with a bang, knew Combo would be involved. It’s been a brilliant series.

    Sunny
    Wardrobemag

    Tuesday, September 28, 2010 at 6:16 pm | Permalink
  10. monkeyhead wrote:

    suspenders?
    cuffs?
    fade?
    interesting…

    Saturday, October 2, 2010 at 7:32 pm | Permalink
  11. christian wrote:

    Well done. You put a lot of time into this post. Well done. Enjoying what I’ve seen of the show as well.

    Monday, October 4, 2010 at 11:15 am | Permalink
  12. Kent wrote:

    Fantastic job here. Just finished watching my American imports of the series, but was having trouble placing Harvey from the first season, as well as “kid on a bike.” Excellent attention to detail.

    I can’t wait until This is England ’90.

    Thursday, January 20, 2011 at 7:47 pm | Permalink
  13. Blake wrote:

    cant wait to see this!!

    Thursday, May 19, 2011 at 9:31 pm | Permalink
  14. Skin wrote:

    So, what subculture is Meggie exactly?? Also, same question goes for Banjo.

    Sunday, November 20, 2011 at 12:08 pm | Permalink
  15. Nat wrote:

    This is a great look at the characters. I would just like to add that Charlotte Walter designed the costumes for the TV series and not the film, which was Jo Thompson. Credit where credit is due!

    Monday, January 7, 2013 at 6:26 pm | Permalink
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    A ha I never knew

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  18. ArK wrote:

    Definitivamente una de las mejores series, el análisis de cada personaje estuvo genial se pueden ver los cambios drásticos de los personajes con respecto a su vestimenta (me parece terrible el look de woody en 1986).. Gran trabajo :)

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